It´s clear that we´re in another country. It´s amazing how much a border can change life... food, language (accent, words, formality...), landscape, facial features, height, prices. I do like Colombia a great deal, so it´s fun to be here again. There´s plenty to tell since the last post, but I´ll stick to one tidbit...
Chava
We´re currently in Villa de Leyva, which is a small get-away town north of Bogotá, Colombia. It´s gorgeous! I really could handle summering here every year :) Yesterday while sitting on a bench near the city´s center, a large, chubby, black dog came to sit next to me and try to make friends. His tail wagged and it was like I was an old friend he hadn´t seen in years. Understand that there are stray dogs everywhere, and they generally look for food and flinch away you get too close. They´re not loyal creatures. This black dog, on the other hand, is the most loyal dog I´ve ever met. He faithfully followed Erin and I through the town of Villa de Leyva all day yesterday...into stores, through the line at the supermarket, sitting next to us on the church´s stairs, and he even sat in the doorway of the restaurant where we ate dinner making others walk around him. When we left to horse back ride for a couple hours he quickly found us upon our return. Each time that we manage to lose him, he finds us again with tail wagging. When we finally retired to our hostel last night, he followed us all the way to the entrance while we had to keep him from coming in with our feet. Saddest scene ever... He is no ordinary stray dog. We never gave him food and haven´t even pet him. I keep calling it a he, but we´ve decided that she´s a she...her name is Chava. If you ever come to Villa de Leyva, look for her, but don´t get too close. It´s bound to end in a painful separation...
We´re off to Medellin this evening where we will meet up with friend Myriam who´s in Medellin for the summer and Ali who will fly in Friday evening!
Chao.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
North we roam
After spending a few days in Otavalo, Ecuador, we´ve come to the north and are starting our adventures Colombian style. Otavalo was one of the nicest places in Ecuador I´ve seen so far. It´s clear that there´s a lot of money in Otavalo because of the huge market that plays itself out each weekend. We decided to peruse the market on a Friday before it was insanely overwhelming on Saturday...it had amazing, quality stuff! Still in Otavalo on Saturday, however, it was incredible to see how much it grew. Literally the entire town turned into a market with vendors down almost every street stretching from the city´s center to across the Panamerican highway where the animal market buzzed. You could buy anything from oranges to toothpaste to woven rugs to a pig or chicken to take home...
One of the most fascinating parts of Otavalo for me was the strong indigenous presence. Ecuador has a large indigenous population in general, but you often find these Quechwa (also Quichua or Kichwa) in more isolated areas of the country and infrequently in cities. Otavalo is certainly the exception where even the mayor is indigenous. The beautiful artisan work has certainly brought attention and money to Otavalo, and has paid off. The streets are beautifully tiled, hot water is plentiful in even cheap hostels, hollister and abercerombie dominate the clothes stores, and a hybrid car we saw didn´t at all look out of place. There are even timed crosswalks with little green animated men telling you when to cross and how long you have. The fact that these ¨luxuries¨ seemed out of character in an indigenous town shows how at the fringe other indigenous people are in Ecuador.
Oh, and I can´t leave the topic of Otavalo without mentioning our daring culinary experience. Cuy (guinea pig..yes, the pet) is a speciality in Ecuador. Erin and I were determined to try some before heading to Colombia. After asking around, we discovered that we were only kilometers from a small town that claims the name for the world capitol of Cuy. Chalturas is a small town full of cuy restaurants (even the president comes here to eat it!) and even boasts a picture of a deep fried cuy on it´s city´s sign. I´ve quickly discovered while in South America that my American nature comes out when asked to eat meat off of a bone. I just don´t like it. I also prefer not to see the head or paws of whatever I´m going to eat... Cuy, however, is not at all American. It comes completely intact with each part of the body on YOUR plate: head, ears, eyes, mouth, feet, little claws... When able to ignore those things staring me in the face, the meat was okay...mediocre at best. And then you realize that there´s still that head sitting there. Our new friend, Lorena (Ecuadorian), joined us and I saw how an Ecuadorian would really eat cuy...each and every piece. I, however, deep deep down, am American. I just couldn´t do it. I left a probably embarrassing amount of meat on those bones.
After a 25ish hour journey north, we are now in Bogotá to begin our Colombian leg of the journey.
Hasta luego!
Friday, July 23, 2010
Ascend, Descend, Repeat
The past weeks have been full of plenty of ups and downs...literally.
Volcán Cotopaxi is the highest active volcano in the world. The number of volcanos just in Ecuador is really quite insane. There was one point when we could see three from the same spot. Few are active, but they are everywhere. We wanted to experience Cotopaxi in one form or another, so we succumbed to paying a guide to lead the way... Many travelers we´ve met along the way aspired to summit the snowy volcano to the very top to be able to boast in looking over its crater´s edge. We, however, are not ready for that... Instead our overly flirtatious guide, Alex, brought us as far as we could get without putting on special equipment to climb in the ice and snow. One of our first spots out of town on the way up the volcano was at this little lake that we had to walk along to acclimatize ourselves to the altitude. We laughed at the silliness of this leisurely walk. I mean, seriously, the altitude couldn´t be that bad. We were in Quito for 3 days afterall. Ha.
We got back into the van and drove up a curvy road to a parking lot. Alex casually told us that we would take a little walk up to the refuge where the insane(!) summiters rest before their summits. This is when I discovered the beast that is altitude. I thankfully didn´t get sick (unlike some...), but did have to stop frequently on the way up the switchback trail to fill my lungs which felt about half the size of what they do back in Minnesota. Incredible. We were at about 5,800 meters for those you that might understand the implications of altitude. Alex was patient with our pace, but was sure that we knew he wasn´t quite as easy on men. One more reason I´m glad to be female... We got to the refuge and climbed a little further to the point where the glacier began...so hard! I shouldn´t forget to say how beautiful it was along the way! I mean, really incredible! The red volcanic rock against the snow was amazing.
The way back down to the van was lovely... :)
We rested one more night in Latacunga, and headed to Baños the next morning. Baños was described to us by several people as really turisty, but worth the trip anyway. The best way I can describe it is as a small town that feels like a beach town wihout actually being on the coast. It´s super laid back, slow paced, and it always feels acceptable to just sit around and enjoy. :) The first day, we did pretty much just that plus hung out in some outdoor hot baths with waters heated from the nearby volcano (I said they´re everywhere...). The next day we rented some bikes...never agree to rent bikes before actually riding on them...and road them about 30 km along a rode where we passed by a series of waterfalls and trails. AND some incredible empanadas... if you´re ever in Baños, let me know. I´ll direct you to the most delicious empanadas ever. :)
So exhuasted at the end of an eventful bike ride, we went to bed early and woke up at an ungodly hour to enjoy the thermal baths again before the rush of tourists. Just lovely... :) And, in time to catch a canyoning trip, which is essentially rappleing, but down waterfalls. Again, we walked UP and further UP to the top of waterfalls and rappeled down 5 different cascades. Despite wearing these ridiculous yellow jackets, the weather was beautiful, jumping down waterfalls turns out to be a blast, and our french company was really fun.
We got back in time to eat lunch at the market (I love meals at markets...) and catch a bus north to Otavalo--a town near Colombia´s border that is known for it´s markets. So, here I sit in front of Otavalo´s main plaza full of vendors selling the most beautiful handmade things I´ve seen traveling in South America. Apparently the market grows to twice its size tomorrow (Saturday) morning...insane!
We plan to see what else there is to see in northern Ecuador for the next couple of days and head to Colombia Sunday or early next week!
Thanks for following along with me. :)
Hasta la próxima!
Michelle
Volcán Cotopaxi is the highest active volcano in the world. The number of volcanos just in Ecuador is really quite insane. There was one point when we could see three from the same spot. Few are active, but they are everywhere. We wanted to experience Cotopaxi in one form or another, so we succumbed to paying a guide to lead the way... Many travelers we´ve met along the way aspired to summit the snowy volcano to the very top to be able to boast in looking over its crater´s edge. We, however, are not ready for that... Instead our overly flirtatious guide, Alex, brought us as far as we could get without putting on special equipment to climb in the ice and snow. One of our first spots out of town on the way up the volcano was at this little lake that we had to walk along to acclimatize ourselves to the altitude. We laughed at the silliness of this leisurely walk. I mean, seriously, the altitude couldn´t be that bad. We were in Quito for 3 days afterall. Ha.
We got back into the van and drove up a curvy road to a parking lot. Alex casually told us that we would take a little walk up to the refuge where the insane(!) summiters rest before their summits. This is when I discovered the beast that is altitude. I thankfully didn´t get sick (unlike some...), but did have to stop frequently on the way up the switchback trail to fill my lungs which felt about half the size of what they do back in Minnesota. Incredible. We were at about 5,800 meters for those you that might understand the implications of altitude. Alex was patient with our pace, but was sure that we knew he wasn´t quite as easy on men. One more reason I´m glad to be female... We got to the refuge and climbed a little further to the point where the glacier began...so hard! I shouldn´t forget to say how beautiful it was along the way! I mean, really incredible! The red volcanic rock against the snow was amazing.
The way back down to the van was lovely... :)
We rested one more night in Latacunga, and headed to Baños the next morning. Baños was described to us by several people as really turisty, but worth the trip anyway. The best way I can describe it is as a small town that feels like a beach town wihout actually being on the coast. It´s super laid back, slow paced, and it always feels acceptable to just sit around and enjoy. :) The first day, we did pretty much just that plus hung out in some outdoor hot baths with waters heated from the nearby volcano (I said they´re everywhere...). The next day we rented some bikes...never agree to rent bikes before actually riding on them...and road them about 30 km along a rode where we passed by a series of waterfalls and trails. AND some incredible empanadas... if you´re ever in Baños, let me know. I´ll direct you to the most delicious empanadas ever. :)
So exhuasted at the end of an eventful bike ride, we went to bed early and woke up at an ungodly hour to enjoy the thermal baths again before the rush of tourists. Just lovely... :) And, in time to catch a canyoning trip, which is essentially rappleing, but down waterfalls. Again, we walked UP and further UP to the top of waterfalls and rappeled down 5 different cascades. Despite wearing these ridiculous yellow jackets, the weather was beautiful, jumping down waterfalls turns out to be a blast, and our french company was really fun.
We got back in time to eat lunch at the market (I love meals at markets...) and catch a bus north to Otavalo--a town near Colombia´s border that is known for it´s markets. So, here I sit in front of Otavalo´s main plaza full of vendors selling the most beautiful handmade things I´ve seen traveling in South America. Apparently the market grows to twice its size tomorrow (Saturday) morning...insane!
We plan to see what else there is to see in northern Ecuador for the next couple of days and head to Colombia Sunday or early next week!
Thanks for following along with me. :)
Hasta la próxima!
Michelle
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Different faces of Ecuador
Hello friends,
I love how traveling somehow makes time completely slow down. It was surprising to me today when I realized that today was only our fourth day in South America...it feels like so much longer. In those two days, we´ve seen two completely different faces of Ecuador...
Quito is the capital city of Ecuador. It´s a city built into and around the mountains of the north central part of the country. Every street is narrow and no block is actually square. It reminds me a little bit of a bigger version of Guanajuato--where I studied abroad in Mexico. The basilica is a huge gothic church that sticks out among everything in the middle of the old town... it´s strange church for Latin America, but the best part was climbing the clock towers of the church to see the city. I have definitely seen my fair share of churches in Latin America, and don´t often jump at the chance to go in one more, but it was sweet.
It was a tough decision to visit the Mitad del Mundo (middle of the earth)... some say it´s cheesy, other´s say it´s worth the 1.5 hour trip out of the city. Part of the joy in such excursions is the bus ride to get there...the challenge of figuring out the buses and what you observe along the way is awesome...
It turned out to be so worth it only for the quirky museum outside of the actual monument marking where the equator passes. Did you know you can balance an egg on a nail ONLY in the middle of the earth?? We laughed a lot at the wierdness of it all...
After Quito was enough, we ventured into the Andes to see what else Ecuador had to show us. For those of you who followed last year or were with me last year :), it was strikingly similar to southern Peru... cold, beautiful, different from anything in the states, and full of alpaca and llama gloves, scarves, and ridiculous hats. :)
Again, the bus ride practically made the whole thing worth it. The Andes are SO beautiful. There´s this loop that you can hike and/or truck around through small towns that takes 2 or so days. We only did a part of the loop for lack of time and equipment, but here´s what we did do...
1. Took a bus to the first village of Zumbahua where we missed the end of a supposedly amazing highland market. We made it just in time to visit some stalls, but mostly see the leftovers of the day´s festivities. There were so many animal bones on the plaza floor, I cannot even begin to tell you... people here love to eat things off of the bone. It´s one cultural difference that´s eternally difficult for me to embrace. :)
2. We hopped into the bed of a truck with our new Polish friend Sebastian, and rode to the next town...Quilotoa. Quilotoa is one street along the crater of Volcano Quilotoa. Inside the crater is a gorgeous green lake. It´s obviously an inactive volcano. The town was essentially created for backpackers, so we found a hostel, settled in, and took some pictures. After buying a hat (it´s cold!) and scarf and taking more pictures, we went inside to warm up with tea and a warm dinner prepared by the hostel owner. Without much else to do on a cold night in Quilotoa Ecuador, we broke out the cards.
3. We woke up early to eat another warm breakfast and have time to hike down the crater to the languna. So beautiful...great leisurely walk down, and killer walk back up. The altitude plus, you know, not being in shape, makes for a hard climb. :)
4. Made it back up in time to catch a bus back to the bigger city of Latacunga where we will stay tonight and catch a jeep tomorrow morning that will take us up Volcano Cotopaxi...the highest volcano in Ecuador. Ooh, and we even saw the president of Ecuador briefly getting into his helicopter along the bus ride! Rumor has it that there´s also a festival in Latacunga this evening... and who can pass up a good festival?
That was plenty long...thanks for sticking with me.
Hasta la proxima,
Michelle
I love how traveling somehow makes time completely slow down. It was surprising to me today when I realized that today was only our fourth day in South America...it feels like so much longer. In those two days, we´ve seen two completely different faces of Ecuador...
Quito is the capital city of Ecuador. It´s a city built into and around the mountains of the north central part of the country. Every street is narrow and no block is actually square. It reminds me a little bit of a bigger version of Guanajuato--where I studied abroad in Mexico. The basilica is a huge gothic church that sticks out among everything in the middle of the old town... it´s strange church for Latin America, but the best part was climbing the clock towers of the church to see the city. I have definitely seen my fair share of churches in Latin America, and don´t often jump at the chance to go in one more, but it was sweet.
It was a tough decision to visit the Mitad del Mundo (middle of the earth)... some say it´s cheesy, other´s say it´s worth the 1.5 hour trip out of the city. Part of the joy in such excursions is the bus ride to get there...the challenge of figuring out the buses and what you observe along the way is awesome...
It turned out to be so worth it only for the quirky museum outside of the actual monument marking where the equator passes. Did you know you can balance an egg on a nail ONLY in the middle of the earth?? We laughed a lot at the wierdness of it all...
After Quito was enough, we ventured into the Andes to see what else Ecuador had to show us. For those of you who followed last year or were with me last year :), it was strikingly similar to southern Peru... cold, beautiful, different from anything in the states, and full of alpaca and llama gloves, scarves, and ridiculous hats. :)
Again, the bus ride practically made the whole thing worth it. The Andes are SO beautiful. There´s this loop that you can hike and/or truck around through small towns that takes 2 or so days. We only did a part of the loop for lack of time and equipment, but here´s what we did do...
1. Took a bus to the first village of Zumbahua where we missed the end of a supposedly amazing highland market. We made it just in time to visit some stalls, but mostly see the leftovers of the day´s festivities. There were so many animal bones on the plaza floor, I cannot even begin to tell you... people here love to eat things off of the bone. It´s one cultural difference that´s eternally difficult for me to embrace. :)
2. We hopped into the bed of a truck with our new Polish friend Sebastian, and rode to the next town...Quilotoa. Quilotoa is one street along the crater of Volcano Quilotoa. Inside the crater is a gorgeous green lake. It´s obviously an inactive volcano. The town was essentially created for backpackers, so we found a hostel, settled in, and took some pictures. After buying a hat (it´s cold!) and scarf and taking more pictures, we went inside to warm up with tea and a warm dinner prepared by the hostel owner. Without much else to do on a cold night in Quilotoa Ecuador, we broke out the cards.
3. We woke up early to eat another warm breakfast and have time to hike down the crater to the languna. So beautiful...great leisurely walk down, and killer walk back up. The altitude plus, you know, not being in shape, makes for a hard climb. :)
4. Made it back up in time to catch a bus back to the bigger city of Latacunga where we will stay tonight and catch a jeep tomorrow morning that will take us up Volcano Cotopaxi...the highest volcano in Ecuador. Ooh, and we even saw the president of Ecuador briefly getting into his helicopter along the bus ride! Rumor has it that there´s also a festival in Latacunga this evening... and who can pass up a good festival?
That was plenty long...thanks for sticking with me.
Hasta la proxima,
Michelle
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Journey to Quito
We knew it would be a long journey from Minneapolis to Quito, and it did indeed live up to our expectations. My first experience on the megabus, as it´s known, was preceded by stories of fire, chronic lateness, and obnoxious phone talkers. There was no fire and no truly annoying cell phone chatters, but there was indeed lateness... We were JUST on time for our 10:30 ride, and when the bus finally pulled up at 12:22, we were certainly ready to abandon our corner to board the bus and begin the journey to South America. The rest was fairly seamless with just one delay in Miami putting us in Quito at 1:00 AM. While late night arrivals aren´t always fun, the silver lining is waking up in a brand new place to explore and learn...
More on Quito to come. :)
More on Quito to come. :)
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